Sunday, May 17, 2009

May 2009 - Namibia & Botswana - The Planning

What started as the doom and gloom of being made redundant has turned into the opportunity for the experience of a lifetime. We are taking 6 weeks to travel in a 4x4 Landrover with roof top tent through Namibia, Botswana and Vic Falls. Our adventure begins as follows:

May 26 - Last day at work
May 27 -
Off to NYC to shop for thermals for winter in Africa...in a tent!!
May 28 - En route to Joburg...2nd time this year..lucky us!
May 29 - Pick up our Landrover Puma - home for the next 6 weeks & head to Weenen for a weekend with Deon's family
June 1 - The adventure begins...from Weenen to Namibia to Botswana and back. Our proposed itinerary is on the right.
July 11 - Back to Bermuda

During our planning, we found this inspiring quote..

Namibia is not so much a place as a feeling.
It enters through the skin,
taking its time to unfold in your bloodstream.
And when its time to leave,
you realize Namibia has taken hold of your soul.
Zulu


We can't wait to feel the effects of Namibia and Botswana on us!! Stay tuned! We hope to take you on our travels via our blog.

March 2009 - "If You Fall Off, Run and Climb a Tree"

...the words of our guide on the horse safari as we plotted our path past 3 rhinos. They kept taking long breaks from eating and watching our every move, looking ready to charge us with one wrong step of the horses but fortunately let us go by unharmed! My heart raising moment!


14 hours in the saddle riding through 625,000 hectares of park and 2 nights camping in the bush made for one of my top 3 life experiences. Galloping alongside the water buck and warthog through endless stretches towards herds of buffalo, wildebeest, zebra or rhino made us feel a unique part of the animals' environment and very vulnerable to them. At night in the tent, we could hear the hippos grunting close by. Africa in the wild

One of the top highlights was our first ride to a hippo pool. 9 pairs of hippo eyes glared at us cautiously watching our every move. As we rounded each side of the pool, all 18 eyes continously changed their position in the pool. The horses were reluctant to cross through some water at the edge of the pool and the hippos rose out of the water slightly just to remind us they could charge at a moments notice. Deon's heart raising moment!


We had 3 leopard sightings - one on horseback which we were alerted to by the baboons barking wildly. We watched him marking his scent on the paths. And what seemed a once in a lifetime sighting, a leopard walked in front of the car on our way out of St. Lucia game park and another on our way into Hluhluwe game park. I have some amazing video footage of him prowling through the bushes.


Hilltop Camp at Hluhluwe was our home for a couple nights nestled in the lucious green hills that could make for the back drop of The Sound of Music and what I'd never expect an African game park setting to look like. The bush is very thick so animal sightings come with some challenges unless you were as lucky (or unlucky) as us to be in the car between a moving herd of elephants. We had stopped to watch a mother and a nursing baby ahead and then saw rustling of the trees to the left and right of us. They came marching out of the bush into our path and tried to give us an intimidating head shake to back us away. Through the rear view mirror we realized reversing was not an option as a huge mother elephant was approaching. Thankfully a lucious tree branch caught her attention and she veered away. We watched nervously for about 30 minutes till all 30 elephants moved on. We could hear the intimidating trumpeting sounds of what seemed an unhappy elephant in the bush and had a good giggle and big sigh of relief when we drove by to see it was only a baby showing his place in the herd. Heart raising moment for both of us!



We had many peaceful animal encounters too however the heart raising ones make for a good email. The photos and video will be awesome to see!

We've been busy so my usual emails are a little late in coming. We are in Weenen now relaxing today! Yesterday we did a beautiful 5 hour hike in the Drakensberg and a couple days before that we joined Deon's brother and sister in a 25km mountain bike race through the farmland around the dam. Very exhilarating!



Some of our favourite animal encounters captured below...








Sept 2007 - Weenen, Zingela, Sani Pass & Drakensburg

Howzit!
Despite being in what I'd describe as the middle of nowhere, there hasn't been a spare 5 mins to fill you in on the latest adventures...so we've extended our trip and will be back in Bda on Sunday.

It's tough to chose the highlight so far but top honours goes to a morning at the Weenen Game Reserve. We'd been driving around the game reserve, saw the same giraffe twice and a rhino that even the best zoom lens couldn't focus on. Just as I was thinking seeing the giraffe a third time was maybe as good as it was going to get we stumbled on a mother and baby white rhino and a herd of zebra. We parked the car and run for cover into a wooden hide at a waterhole. It's a wooden structure next to the waterhole where the animals can't see you apparently but great vista for seeing them. A magical spot. It was as if a game warden had the animals lined up in their groups and one by one he sent the group down to the watehole to drink right before our eyes. It was silent and they were all so cautious approaching. Often the babies were the brave ones and the adults would then follow. The zebra captured our attention first frolicking around at the water until Deon sneezed and sent them galloping. The baby rhino enticed his mom to the waterhole but surprisingly he was too timid to drink whilst she just sucked up gallons of water. Kudu cows, kudu bulls, eland all popped by for a drink. A warthog just cruised by. As a joke I said to Deon go find me a giraffe. He'd popped his head out the hide and who should be gnawing on the trees outside but a mummy and baby giraffe. My dream was to see and capture on photo the sight of a giraffe drinking. They spread their front legs wide open into an upside down V in order to bend down to drink. She saunters towards the water so gracefully directly in front of me. The moment had arrived however my battery light on the camera was flashing. Just as she gets into position and I take the shot the battery dies and the spares are in the car! Ugh!!!  Deon tried to get back to the car to get the spares unnoticed but we forgot about the vantage point of a giraffe and the baby wasn't taking a chance and she glided off with the mom on her heels.




Taking 2nd place was a day and night at Zingela Bush/ River Camp. What an adventure just getting there through Zulu Villages and then onto a 35km path you'd never even describe as a road - like a Disney roller coaster ride in slow motion - up, down, side to side constantly. Makes Costa Ricas pot holes just seem like a tiny hole in the road. Only a bucky (small truck) can get you there! We arrived to find 44 - 14 year old boys on an adventure camp so we joined in their activities and did a 30m abseil. The kids were sent out in the bush to camp for the night so we had sundowners by the fire and a great party with lots of bad singing with the teachers - where's Boeboe and his guitar when you need him. It was a full moon and such an amazing place to watch it rise over the mountains and reflect off the river! We stayed in a hut with a curtain for a door, open spaces for windows and a massive 6 ft aloe plant that the hut had been built around. I woke a few times in the night expecting to see an animal staring at me. They heat a tank of water with logs and fire in the morning and about 30 mins later enjoying a hot shower for all the animals to see.


Just when all our insides had repositioned themselves after the trip to Zingela we took a tour up Sani Pass to Lesotho (a country inside South Africa). Another 4x4 adventure only - through some hair pin turns entitled Prayer Corner as you say a prayer in hopes of making it safely to the bottom, Grace of God corner as it's by the grace of God you make it round that bend, Reverse Corner where you can't make it round in on go (and sadly we saw the truck remains of someone who wasn't so lucky!) and then Amen Corner as you say Amen you've made it! A drive into the clouds with no barriers on the roadside as you wind your way up and down the pass. Amen is right! 
After going through Lestho Immigration and Customs where we weren't even required to get of the truck we went to visit a local lady in her hut. They live in such isolated and barren conditions and must cope with bitter harsh winters. Most of the men are dressed in blankets as a coat to battle the harsh weather conditions. The lady prepared bread which she cooked in a cast iron pot with cow dung as the fire. Surprisingly very tasty - would have been divine with a little butter. She had a pole outside her home with a small white sack attached which meant bread and beer were for sale. A red flag has meat for sale, green is vegetables and yellow is wine! An amazing system. She had a huge pile of cow dung outside which she either collects or the shepherds bring in exchange for bread or beer. Being a stop on this tour is the only livlihood for this lady. She sells brooms and hats so we bought a broom b/c not sure what I'd do with a hat! 

As we left we saw this man riding a horse and I asked the driver if we could stop and take a photo. What an incredible series - the first photo he doesn't realise we are taking his picture, the 2nd photo he calls out to the driver to ask us to pay so for 2 rand (30 cents) of course we'll pay, the 3rd he is riding towards us with a big whip in the air, the 4th he dismounts, the 5th he bows in thanks and the 6th we get the view of a pair of eyes only as he was completely covered by his blanket. Very intimdating and at one point I wasn't sure what could be under that cover and how badly that all could turn out. Fortunately he happily remounted and headed to buy his cigarette!


We've also been for a walk in the bush and bumped into the tracker on the way in who asked Deon if he had his rifle which he didn't and so just said well watch out for the leopard. I asked what was the plan if we saw leopard? Just run I was reassured. Fortunately the animals we saw were too frightened by us so hopefully we were either unnoticed or not part of the leopards diet!

We did a 5 1/2 hour hike in the Drakensburg Mtns today. Not for those afraid of heights - Deon's sister turned back after the first hour. We hiked up narrow windy trails with huge drops hundreds of feet down on the side of the path - like Sani Pass no guard rails and like Zingela you wouldn't even call some parts a trail as in a few places there were no paths and you had to climb across the rock. Scarier than skydiving was the climb up the two chain ladders up 150 metres to the summit with no harness just clinging to the handles and taking one step at a time! Deon nurtured me along encouraging my every step. I just never looked down! You'll have to see the photos to believe this. We then hiked to Tugela falls - the 2nd largest waterfall in the world however it's dry as there has been no rain. By the way the spider is nowhere to be found. The hike down the ladder was a little scary too but by this point the only choice is down!

We were up at 4.30am this morning to leave for the hike so I'm ready to catch up on sleep. Spring is in the air here - the temperatures warmed up, the trees are turning green and every bird in Weenan seems outside my window in the morning.

We're starting off the day at the hide at the waterhole in search of the missed giraffe photo .
Totsiens!

Aug 2007 - Welcome to Weenen

Welcome to Weenan - population 100 people - plus me and a big spider in my room. Apparently it's a rain spider and they are desperate for rain so it being indoors is a good sign but it being high on the walls is not. If it starts to climb down rain is coming! And I'm a running :)
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Imagine being in an IMAX theatre and the volume is on high thundering across the room. That's the sound of an angry crocodile that gets tapped on the head with a stick. Who even knew they roared? They also have a very intimidating vibrating throat to match. Very happy to be on the outside of that enclosure! We went to a Zulu Village experience with a bonus reptile farm. Be relieved to know that our most dangerous creature in Bda is the flying cockaroach as opposed to all the snakes we got to see fortunately behind a glass wall. Deon and his uncle went looking for pythons the other day and all seemed very disappointed to return with no sightings. Shame they say here when things don't quite go your way!

We also took in another form of culture at the "fish market" with goats heads (still covered in fur and eyeballs in place), pigs feet, some unidentified stomachs hanging there for sale. I can't imagine what delicacy they get whipped up in. The smell was so overpowering of I don't know what. I couldn't escape fast enough.
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We have driven up to Weenen today so plan to spend the next week here. Had a brief sightseeing drive around tonight which has left me relatively speechless and may take me a day or so to process the remoteness and cultural disparaties of life in a rural community. It is going to be an eye opening adventure of life in South Africa - something I never experienced on my trip with Chrissy as a tourist staying in "on the beaten track" places - an exciting adventure to come.



We are planning some hikes in the game reserve and Drakensburg Mtns, a trip through Sani Pass on the way to Lesotho, a game drive and zip cording through the bush. We've already seen giraffe, ostrich and a massive rhino and baby on the drive up today.
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The dogs are going bollistic outside. The house is all gated in. Feels safe to be inside of the night-time of rural South Africa. Phew they've stopped now. Deon's parents dog is reknowned in the community as the dog's dad killed an intruder in his owners home so I believe I am in safe hands with him on guard.
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Looking forward to tomorrow's adventure of experiencing rural and off the beaten track South Africa!